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Author Topic: Help - rough start & run until warm?  (Read 3009 times)
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dmarkham
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« Reply #15 on: June 09, 2010, 01:24:13 AM »

Right I've looked through the link suggested - and very grateful - the turbo air intake is the pipe like part I've indicated in red and the part beneath in red is the one that I need to be careful not to take off before lining up timing marks. Is that right? and timing marks are found near SADS which I think I've located - I'll attach photo.
Now some sleep and have a fresh look tomorrow.   
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ADarbon
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« Reply #16 on: June 09, 2010, 01:26:41 AM »

yes use that photo and my write up and it should make sence together. Photos is the thing i need to finish the write up hoping too get my new shims soon so i can finish the job. no you need to take the front part of the timing cover off, part nerest you and on the wheel is a line you use the bolts on the sads to turn the engine
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Tony the family guy

ADarbon
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« Reply #17 on: June 09, 2010, 01:33:13 AM »


theres a heads up on what your looking at


thats the line on the cam pully that needs to point down for the vac pump to come off and when you put it back on.

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Tony the family guy

dmarkham
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« Reply #18 on: June 10, 2010, 01:06:12 AM »

I've had a look again and now taken off the turbo air intake which was quite simple. Thanks for info and photo of the cam-pulley. I was looking at a mark on disk/wheel on the engine side of the SADS, which I presume is wrong.

I'll have a go at taking off the timing cover tomorrow and if I see a cam-puley looking like the photo you put up, I'll know I'm in the right area! 

If you need photos for a tutorial I've been taking them right from first removal of seats for every step of dismantling so far.

Thanks for support

Dom
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ADarbon
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« Reply #19 on: June 10, 2010, 01:13:19 AM »

Just the little cover nearest you, you need to remove, it has a bolt top and bottom and a clip on the top edge.
just post your photos up on this thread and I can steel the ones i like best Grin
Take your time step by step remembering what goes where.
Poke a rag down the pipe for the turbo, the last thing you want to do is drop something in there. would be very costly.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2010, 06:39:38 PM by ADarbon » Logged

Tony the family guy

dmarkham
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« Reply #20 on: June 10, 2010, 11:42:58 PM »

Hi
I've managed to locate and remove cam cover. Photo attached. The mark on the cam pulley is quite small, but presume this is the one that needs to point down. How accurate does this need to be? Are we taking by eye or using some sort of measure/gauge for dead vertical?

What are the other marks on the inner parts of the cam pulley for? - I've circled them in photo attached below.

Thanks for help so far. next job is to remove vac pump then the actual cover to reveal valves and cam. 
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dmarkham
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« Reply #21 on: June 10, 2010, 11:44:44 PM »

Any idea what these other marks on the inner parts of cam pulley are?
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ADarbon
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« Reply #22 on: June 11, 2010, 01:33:05 AM »

Any idea what these other marks on the inner parts of cam pulley are?
one to the top is locator to the wood ruff key for putting the pully on the cam shaft, locating pin to the right i think the other markings lower too that i cant help.
as long as the mark is pointing down the vac pump spring will be released and will make removal and replacing easier.
« Last Edit: July 11, 2010, 06:40:24 PM by ADarbon » Logged

Tony the family guy

dmarkham
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« Reply #23 on: June 11, 2010, 07:14:16 PM »

Brill, thanks for help. I'm going to take off vac pump and then uncover cam and valves and will measure gap tomorrow once I've got the tools to do so.
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ADarbon
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« Reply #24 on: June 11, 2010, 10:20:09 PM »

just a simple flick fealer gauge is fine. i got the little pocket micrometer not too acurate but i was penny scatching at the time
The pocket micrometer turned out to be well out and useless
« Last Edit: July 11, 2010, 06:41:22 PM by ADarbon » Logged

Tony the family guy

dmarkham
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« Reply #25 on: June 12, 2010, 12:29:12 AM »

I'll put a couple of posts in with attached photo (I 'm not sure how to insert photos into the text) showing progress. First was removal of vac pump. 4 bolts not too hard to get using extension bar and came off easily enough
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dmarkham
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« Reply #26 on: June 12, 2010, 12:39:19 AM »

After removal of vac pump then undid rocker cover (if that is correct terminology) bolts 10mm. Most of these were easy to reach except for two on the lower left as you look from the drivers door as my socket and wrench would not fit on due to space. One of those devices that connets socket bar and socket but allow to turn at an angle would have been good. I managed to fiddle them off with a 10mm spanner. Once wiring unclipped and other rubber tube unclipped the cover lifted away easily to reveal the cam and valves.
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dmarkham
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« Reply #27 on: June 12, 2010, 12:57:51 AM »

The cam and valves now safely revealed. I have photoed each set of valves and would appreciate comments as the one nearest the front of bus, - Number 1 cylinder I guess - looks different to the others. It has a milky stone colour on the centre part of the cam, but also to the edges of the cam lobe and looks like possibly to the edge of one of the valves indicated in the attached photo with arrows. I've also attached images of the rest of valves which look okay I think.

Any ideas as to what the creamy coloured part on the cam means would be helpful as could be a clue to the original problems/symptoms. Original problems were a very very slight delay on starting up first thing and then lumpy running until warm (like a mis fire - but obviously not petrol) and again very slight loss of power on steep hills. 

I guess to do feler gauge part of checking clearances the cam point as it were should be directly away from valve. I also guess that that is achieved through turning the engine via a socket onto the SADS bolts.

I'd appreciate it if you cuold tell me which were teh inlet valves as gaps are different to exhaust valves I believe.

Feel free to use attached photos for your tutorial on valve clearances.
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rune
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« Reply #28 on: June 12, 2010, 07:41:29 AM »

Would the milky/gold colour be k-seal? Has any been added to the coolant? If it has then there may be a leak - cracked head - and thats the copper flakes thats in it.

Other thought is emulsified oil. Does it wipe off or is it crusty?
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dmarkham
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« Reply #29 on: June 12, 2010, 10:27:59 AM »

Thanks for suggestions, really appreciated. It's definitely not K-seal or any additive to coolant as I've had the bus since the head was replaced some 18months ago. I haven't tried to wipe it off yet, but will look this morning. What would emulsified oil mean?
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